Frequently Asked Questions

HomeGuide's national range is $1.50 to $5.00 per square foot installed, about $3,000 to $8,000 for an attic and $2,000 to $4,000 for a crawl space. Access, thickness and prep set the actual figure, which we put on a written estimate after we visit.

Christian County is in Climate Zone 4A. ENERGY STAR recommends R-60 for an attic with no insulation, or about R-49 added over 3 to 4 inches of existing insulation.

Closed-cell. It insulates, slows moisture and does not soak up water, which matters under a house in a humid climate. Open-cell is better suited to interior walls and many attic rooflines.

Yes. Closed-cell foam sprayed on the steel insulates and keeps warm, moist air off the cold metal, which stops the dripping that ruins tools, feed and equipment.

If the crawl space is being encapsulated, yes: vents are sealed, a liner goes down, the walls are foamed and a dehumidifier or conditioned air keeps it dry. Simply closing vents without the rest of that work can trap moisture.

HomeGuide advises at least 24 hours. For a detached shop or barn, the house is usually not affected.

Where air leaks and moisture meet, such as rim joists, crawl spaces and rooms over garages, yes. For open attic floors, blown-in over sealed gaps is usually the better value.

Commonly 2 to 3 inches. Your quote states the planned thickness for each area.

Injection foams exist, but dense-pack cellulose is more predictable for most closed walls. Foam fits best where framing is open.

There can be an odor during application and curing, which is why HomeGuide advises staying out at least 24 hours and why we ventilate.

Usually some form of drying, either a dehumidifier or a small supply of conditioned air, because the space no longer exchanges air with outside.

In most cases yes, because the damp air and wet insulation that cause the smell are removed and kept out.

Usually, though it takes more labor. We check clearance during the visit.

A liner stops ground moisture, but open vents still bring in humid air. Full encapsulation handles both.

If the tops of the ceiling joists are visible, there is not enough. Hot upstairs rooms in summer are another sign.

Yes, if the old is dry and clean. Wet, moldy or rodent-damaged material should come out first.

Yes. It keeps hot attic air from leaking into the house and conditioned air from leaking out.

Most are done in a day.

Yes. Closed-cell under the steel keeps moist air off the cold metal, so condensation does not form.

Some uses call for a thermal or ignition barrier over the foam. We discuss what applies to your building and use.

Yes, with prep. Equipment is moved or covered before spraying.

If condensation is the problem, a thinner layer under the roof often solves it at a lower cost.

Reaching about R-49 to R-60 typically takes well over a foot of loose fill, depending on the material. The quote lists the depth.

Some settling is expected and is built into the installed depth.

Yes, per square foot. HomeGuide lists blown-in at $1.00 to $2.80 versus $1.50 to $5.00 for foam.

Yes, using dense-pack cellulose through small holes, after checking wiring and blocking.

Only if it is wet, moldy, contaminated or damaged. Clean, dry insulation can stay.

Most attic or crawl space removals take about a day.

Leave it alone and have it tested. If it contains asbestos, a licensed abatement firm should remove it.

Usually yes, once the space is dry and the cause of the damage is fixed.